Michael Edwards: Ripe fruit the dominant impression, and a hint of licorice: maturity. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Quite deep yellow-gold; steady mousse. Classy though very Burgundian aromas of sliced mushroom, vanilla, and beaten cream. Full, mouth-filling, and turning on a near-Vegas charm, this is another very opulent 2006: broad-beamed, busty, and... not quite blowsy, because it is Champagne after all, but we’re almost beginning to flirt with that. There’s some ground stone in the finish, but it’s less evident in a wine like this than it would be in a brut nature or an extra-brut. Nonetheless, you can’t fault its exuberance, and it is fun to drink. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Distinctive Chardonnay aromas supported by well-integrated, fine oak. Soft and long. 17