Jesús Barquín: Golden amber. Intense nose and palate, with perceptible age and oxidation; warm. Original and distinctive, deserves attention, though not quite at the same level of excellence as the best. 86

Andrew Jefford: Attractive butterscotch yellow. Generous but relatively torpid aromas of apricot, quince, and buttered walnut; very harmonious and seamless. Soft, rich, open, lush, and tangy—as classical as you would like. A very cultural wine: all bodega, as you drink it, and almost zero vineyard. But why not? It’s fun; it works well; it has a gastronomic sense and identity; and no one else does anything like this. A big fat goldfish of a wine, ambling about the pond and pleasing the eye—or, here, the palate. 88

Richard Mayson: Deep butterscotch color with a ripe,expressive lanolin character to the nose anda curious touch of manuka honey; rich and profound, with a full, baked butter character offset by a tang of marmalade-like acidity. Fully mature but very much alive and finely poised. White Rioja at its idiosyncratic best. 96