Jesús Barquín: Golden yellow. Spicy nose beginning to offer undergrowth aromas, or dry grass perhaps, but intense and with quince notes. The palate is drier and more austere than the nose promised, with less fruit presence and more oak. Loaded with personality, anyway. 86

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Attractive, warm, glowing sort of scents: clearly in the classic tradition (with some evident oak), yet here realized with some discretion and restraint. The palate delivers what the aromas promised. Soft, structured drinking in which wood and air have prised apart the tightly bonded atoms of intrinsic white Rioja fruit neutrality. (But it’s not a very concentrated wine, in truth.) 85

Richard Mayson: Old gold in color; ripe and fully mature, touch of rancio, smoky, hint of lemon peel but falling rather flat on the nose; similarly rather flat initially on the palate, hanging together with some savory richness and a touch of rancio on the finish. 85