Jesús Barquín: Golden yellow. Very ripe on both nose and palate, a little oxidized, and a tad short of acidity— which makes it heavy. It is partially redeemed by its singular personality, but not even that is enough. 83

Andrew Jefford: Big gold. Mmmm: a lovely honk of developed oak and fruit that has chameleoned itself into warm wet clay (or something aromatically thereabouts) with the help of air. This, really, is very white Rioja and very gratifying, and I can’t wait to slosh it over my papillae. So I do... and it’s everything the nose promised: developed, open, rich; elaborate carpentry on neutral fruits; a bottle that has slumbered a while. It’s not, though, a very concentrated wine, and perhaps it doesn’t quite meet “fine wine” norms in terms of subtlety and nuance of articulation. But it’s a good drink and lots of uncomplicated fun. 83

Richard Mayson: Deep straw to gold; somehow hollow on the nose, fully mature and drying out, with a bruised fruit character underlying; quite rich on the palate but lacking in freshness, all smoky oak with little or no fruit character left to back it up. 76