Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Evolved, slightly oxidative nose of simple, lifted apple fruit. Apple jam, bruised apple, and woody notes. Fading fruit on the firm palate, a degree of austerity. Long, severe finish. 15.5

Simon Field: Small bubbles and a distinctive almost savory nose; the palate is slightly less easy to read, vestigial oak a reliable impediment to nature’s intention. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Medium lemon-gold color, with a sort of vin ordinaire aroma and palate. 13 (3 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; >5g/l dosage; NA)