Nicolas Belfrage: Deep color. Grapey, plummy aromas. An unusually mellow and savory palate, with saline notes running through those of plum and rhubarb. Well made but not desperately attractive at this stage. Drink from 2016. 14.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Complex, fragrant, mineral nose, with small black fruits, graphite, cedarwood, and hints of cloves and fresh herbs. Medium to full body, with an elegant, restrained palate and long, clean rosewater finish. A classic Barolo of considerable elegance. 18

Andrew Jefford: Deep garnet red. A lovely warm fog of ripe, developed, aromatic fruits, drawing you into the glass. With time in the glass, this acquires more precision and refinement. Outstanding concentration, poise, attack, and extractive sobriety here. This is a hugely commanding, very complete wine of arresting presence and glorious, indeed almost shattering, phenolic complexity. All you could fault it for is aromatic precision (which accrues with time in the glass), but the raw materials are so outstanding, so pure, and so true that I am not minded to. And anyway, time may shape and draw the aromatic threads together. A Barolo I would love to have in my (imaginary) cellar. 19