Nicolas Belfrage: Lovely medium-depth, garnet-rimmed color. Clean, fresh, inviting nose: red berries. Challenging palate, with firm acid and tannins, but everything ripe and on track to burst forth in 2 or 3 years’ time. Has length. 17

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to ruby, tawny rim. Restrained nose, with small black fruits, forest undergrowth, cedarwood, pine resin, and medicinal herbs. Compact palate, with huge tannins and a long, mineral finish. A very young Barolo to leave in the bottle for at least the next ten years. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Warm, rich, well-rounded aromas: apple, plum, spice, tobacco, all sketched deftly with nothing too heavy or insistent or obvious. A big, forceful, thrusting palate, with a great spadeful of redcurrant and red-apple fruit caked in a clay of tannin. Nothing overripe; almost a mouthful of primal scream. (Uninitiated redwine drinkers, beware: Barolo can do this.) Not, perhaps, the most artful wine on the table, but it lives up to the promise of the name, and there are vineyard-derived subtleties to it as well, as will be evident in the drinking. 14.5