Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep with a garnet rim. Gently floral on the nose, with slightly meaty aromas, as of fresh quality steak. Quite a creamy palate, though balanced by fresh acidity. Tannins somewhat massive but balanced. Porty finish, drinking soonish but with plenty of life ahead. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny rim. Refined, complex nose, with citrus fruit, fragrant, small red and black fruits, rosewater and violets, and hints of cedarwood. Massive tannins yet balanced by the pure small-fruits nose, with a long, rosewater, floral finish. A superb, classic Barolo, which combines power and elegance. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep red. A slightly minor-key spectrum of aromas; celery, plant sap, medicinal plum, plus a certain woodiness. But plenty of aromatic articulacy nonetheless, and one of the things we love about Barolo is its ability to range widely in its aromatic nuances. On the palate, this is quite a light, developed wine in the context of its peers, but very true in its tannic-currant synthesis, perfectly ripe thanks to the vintage, and with plenty of the aromatic complexity that is its birthright. A wine I would drink soon with much pleasure. 13.5