Alfred Gratien Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne France 2015 (12.5% ABV) — 91
SF | Straw pale, a modest effervescence. Apple charlotte, figs, and soft earth; searing acidity at the moment, the laudably low dosage struggling in its face; somewhat atypical for the vintage, therefore, and hard to read. Quo vadis? If the acidity settles down, and there is no reason to think that it may not, then this will be more interesting. Judgment deferred, therefore. 92
EA | Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose comes with sweet, creamy appeal. A flick of vanilla coats the lemon and peach fruit. Promising for its purity of fruit and sweetly fragrant charm. Over time in the glass, a touch of vegetal herbaceousness arises, but not in disturbing dimensions. A fine palate of creamy, caressing qualities and good, succulently fruity, and silky-flowing length. Exemplary, creamy finesse to the mousse. 2023–35. 94
TH | Fragrant tropical tones of mango and pineapple here, fleshy with orange citrus yet presented with a carefully controlled freshness. The palate incorporates some of the lemon-pith grip of the year into its succulent fruit successfully, with a relatively fine mousse and some bitter-almond intensity. A straightforward wine that plays to the year's strengths. 88