Alfred Gratien Cuvée Paradis Brut Champagne France 2015 (12.5% ABV) – 91
SF | Soft straw-green, with a delicate filigree. Lace. The nose is raw, quite assertive, the green-apple fruit taking all before it, with less room for nuance and allusion than one might have liked. The palate is more generous; brioche, pâtisserie, and Welsh honey; hints of red-berried fruit and a pleasing, spicy backdrop. Oak finally makes its presence felt! A tale of three cities, therefore, each one more accommodating than its immediate forebear. 93
EA | Pale lemon color. A rich nose, with charred and woody notes overlaying the sweet, ripe fruitiness. There is a mild vegetal, ash note underneath the lush fruit. The palate comes with fine freshness and juiciness, carrying long and ending on a crisp and clean note. The palate felt superior to the nose with its good length and succulence. 2023–33. 92
TH | Mature and expressive, with honey, apricot, blackberry, and tropical nuances here, touched with creamy cocoa. Juicy, sweetly fruited, and food-friendly, this plays on the year's sunniness effectively, with just a touch of herbal grip and a sweet-sour citric finish. 2023–28. 87