SF | Oak, vanilla, iodine, and quince: a lot to be going on with. The wood informs and nourishes the palate, with hazelnut, almonds, and the raw clarion call of preserved lemons. Finely drawn, firm in acidity and resourceful of intent; an excellent example of oak-matured Champagne from an ostensibly acidic and therefore potentially problematic vintage. The Champagne takes it all in its stride, with great aplomb. 93
EA | Deep lemon color. A mild touch of oxidation on the sweet, appley nose. Spicy, with floral twists and lots of oaky power. There is a flor touch to the aromatics. Pronounced palate of vinosity and high acidity. 2023–30. 89
TH | Pecan, cooked apple, and toasted almond here, in a slightly evolved style. The oxygen influence lends some open, dried-apple, aromatic ease to the wine, while blue-fruit and pastry tones sit in a slightly slack frame. There is some fruit intensity and detail here, although the oxygen influence is too pronounced. 86