SF | Soft gold, straw behind, the bubbles persisting gently. A nose of nuts, ripe fruit, and maybe just a hint of oxidation. A rich, indulgent style is writ large on the palate—a fillip to all of those who seek such a thing, anathema to those in search of purity and restrained plenitude. Over to you. 90
EA | Deep lemon color. Evolved nose, with cream and hay over spice-laden fruit. Appley, with toffee and peach compote. A touch oxidative. Rich, overt palate, with an expansive mousse and a long, fresh finish. Good intensity but lacks a little in aromatic purity. 2023–30. 89
TH | Expressive dried-peach and spicy pear character, with apple cake and toasted almond. Rather rounded and open-stanced, this is ready to drink now, with its dried-apple fruitiness and brioche notes, although it finishes dry and pithy. 88