SF | Deeply saturated colour and an impressive sophisticated nose, understated in a mineral-scented smoky kind of way and with an evocative subplot which tells tales of pine forests and moth-balled furniture in old buildings. The architecture on the palate is impressive, with acid and tannin harmoniously interfaced and a clean crescendo on the finish which underwrites quality. Gloriously layered and beautifully constructed; a wine for the ages. 93
AJ | Dark, dense, saturated black-red. This is very good: earthy, deep, stony, quite sensual for Madiran, with flesh and belly fur tickling out the fruit. Perhaps not the most refined aromatic profile today, though; just a little bit sweet. Well, after 10 minutes I take this back as premature and simplistic: the aromas have responded very well to air (as they always do: this wine ideally needs 24 hours' decanting) and all manner of fruit resource is opening up here: splendid and resourceful sloe and damson and plum, all done with a produndity which (by the way) Pomerol doesn't always attain. No evident oak intrusions (though the wine may be sagely oaked); pure, refined, nuanced and long. On the palate, this is very deep, serious, searching, perhaps a little bit difficult in its dryness and innate austerity, but very fine, packed with aromatic resource, exploding with triggered flavours which unwind and ignite as you hold the wine on your tongue. A serious, dense wine of splendid purity, length, energy, force and drive, and certainly a reference (for the initiated) over the next 30 years.Drink Dates: 2025 - 2055. 95
DW | Still dense and brightly coloured in the glass at six years old, the nose has a slightly exotic/incense aspect before a densely packed palate filled with black fruit, tapenade and meat; tannic gutsiness and power and long savoury finish: gastronomic and barely at the beginning of its drinking life. 92