Essi Avellan: Pale lemon. Stylish, clean, fruity nose, beautifully lined with toast and vanilla. Positive aging aromas are starting to emerge. Charming, fragrant character. There is a lot happening on the palate, too. Intense and zesty, but unnecessarily dry and tight nature. A character of its own. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Fuller gold; seething, snowy mousse. Rather confined, Bakelite aromas; not an aromatic charmer as first poured. Perhaps it will be better for the other tasters, who will come to this bottle a little later than me. Concentrated, straightforward palate, with chunky apple and green grape. A sound Champagne to drink, but it lacks aromatic charm in my glass. 14

Tom Stevenson: Young, fresh and moreish. I’m not sure that this evokes any “sense of place,” but it does have classic structure, a delicious ampleness of fruit, great acids, and a very long finish in which it is the fruit that remains in control. A lovely Champagne. 18