Essi Avellan: Deep golden. Strong, oaky, charred, superintense nose showing beautiful evolution and yeasty and toasty depth. Really powerful, with mild oxidative notes but backed up by plenty of acidity and vibrancy. This is still youthful, and the oak will get better integrated over time. 19

Andrew Jefford: Full lemon-yellow with an excellent, sustained, fine-beaded mousse. It looks so good that I was geared up for a great aroma—but alas, this smells rather varnishy. There is some plant and seaweed behind. The palate is very acid-dominated, a little hard. Good, concentrated Champagne, but lacks aromatic grace and charm. Biting, faintly bitteredged finish, which makes for a cleansing effect but cannot redeem the charmlessness. 13

Tom Stevenson: Toasty aromas dominate. Surprisingly high acids for the year (2003, the only information the tasters were given). Definitely a food wine. 18