Essi Avellan: Deep yellow with peachy hues. Nose is dominated by baked and bruised apple, with earthy depth and woody notes. Plenty of power and Pinot width. Ripe and opulent and will take time, even if today the oxidative character is too much up front. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep gold; desultory mousse. Sweet, rounded, soft crème anglaise aromas. Rather rigid, harsh palate, in contrast to the aromatic profile; very driving and does have a sense of stony resource to it. Good vineyards, perhaps, but the aggression of the acidity is rather hard to climb through. Faintly bitter finish here. 13

Tom Stevenson: This has very good concentration for the year and the barest hint of coffee-caramel; yeastderived complexity of fruit on the palate. Fine and still evolving. 18