Essi Avellan: Deep golden. Oak-lined, sweet exuberant nose. Plenty of fruit and high quality oak, but it overpowers. Full and structured, fresh palate. For an oaky style this is well made, but still too much. 16

Andrew Jefford: Full lemon-yellow. Sweet and custardy, though not hugely subtle. Rather edgy, sharp palate. Sense of damp chalk, but the slightly raw fruit doesn’t carry those flavors with much charm, alas. Acidulous rather than vinous and perfumed finish. 12

Tom Stevenson: Cedary fruit, with high acids, exceptional length and a clean finish. 15