Essi Avellan: Pale lemon color. Mild, youthful pear-andstone- fruit nose on the reductive side. Chalky minerality comes through on the lean, fresh palate. Soft mousse, and appealing, inoffensive style. Crisp, fresh finish with attractive fruitiness. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; steady mousse. Fresh, green, and sculpted aromas, with almost Rieslingesque fruit; then the palate has a green, Sauvignon-like herbaceousness to it. A little wobbly around the ideal, in other words. Nonetheless, this is a drinkable Champagne from what one assumes is a relatively modest site. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Clean, rich, intense, with an intense finish. 17