Essi Avellan: Pale lemon-green. Mild yellow-apple nose, spice and flowery potpourri. Crisp, acid-driven palate shadowing the fruitiness. Slightly more generous dosage could have helped; now seems disjointed. Good energy and positive vigor, though. 14

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; steady mousse. Creamy sweet, soft, seaweed, and green tea for complexity: a lovely aromatic profile, and classily understated. Ivy leaf and plant sap; pristine yet articulate. Impressive, intense Champagne on the palate, too: very fine, very pure, very snowy, very stony; green apple for the fruit, but teased to such a perfection of ripeness that it sketches other ghost fruits in the air (tangerine, firm kiwi, quince). All tautened and tightened up on the finish but without losing that allusiveness either. 17

Tom Stevenson: We have oak, great intensity, and huge acids, which could have made something special, but it is spoiled by a touch oxidative aromas. However, it is worth opening for its massive length (without weight) and indelible aftertaste. 17.5