Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon color. Mild, earthy-spicy nose with leesy depth and woody notes. More pronounced palate with fine intensity. Soft and round palate, suitably dosed. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; just a lonely thread or two of gas. Attractive aromas, though: violets, jonquils, bulb leaves in spring. Fresher oak somewhere, too, but mostly sappy, moist, planty. Very concentrated and very acidic on the palate: pure, driving, and long, with ample green sap and pressed green apple. A cool place, but the overall refinement of this, despite its rather challenging profile, suggests that it’s a propitious place. Brace yourselves, but well worth a look. 17

Tom Stevenson: Oxidative aromas with oak lingering in the background. The oak-underscored fruit on the palate is the best part of this wine. Totally clean, lovely acids, but the oxidative aromas reappear on the finish. 15