Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Crisp, deep, slightly vegetal-lined nose of sweet tropical fruitiness. There are some reductive smoky characters still present. Soft and round, age-mellowed but with freshness and fluffy mousse. Long and concentrated and retaining its youthfulness very well. 19

Andrew Jefford: Full lemon-yellow, with a steady mousse. Oniony on the nose, alas; I can’t smell this with any pleasure. That reductive, sulfidey character runs through to the palate, too. 11

Tom Stevenson: Toasty aromas dominate. The palate has a Chablisienne character, which is quite remarkable for the vintage (the only information the tasters were given). Lovely aftertaste. 18.5