Essi Avellan: Deep orange-hued, worrying color. Dull, oxidative, cider-like apple nose. Waxy. Wide, mouth-filling palate, very intense but oxidation masks most nuances. Too dry, too. 10

Andrew Jefford: An almost alarmingly deep gold here, with very languid mousse; it may be NV, but it doesn’t look like a youngster. Rather soupy, oxidized nose; maybe a solera-style Champagne, I guess—but if so, the nose doesn’t really make the case for the technique. On the palate, by contrast, I find this an interesting and rewarding Champagne: deep, long, round, resonant, with very complex fruit flavors and a nutty cast, but at the same time, fresh, pure, vigorous, sappy, concentrated, and long. Rather difficult to mark, but I’ll go with my palate enthusiasm... 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Gold color, not old or oxidizing (acetic) on the nose but spoiled by an aldehydic-oxidative (acetaldehyde) dimension. Good balance of fruit and acidity, but I am left wondering why it is so golden. If the reason is because of age, or aged reserves, then there should be more complexity. Puzzling, though that’s not intrinsically a bad thing. 15