Stephen Brook: Closed nose, hints of lime. Fresh attack, silky, but lacks a little concentration; there’s a welcome intensity on the mid-palate and good acidity. One-dimensional at present, but it needs time for any layered complexity to emerge. Well balanced and long, yet somehow lacking a little flair. 16

Margaret Rand: Silky, balanced, and with good finesse. Very elegant, confident, glossy wine, with well-judged firmness and power. Great elegance and style. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Honey and very, very slight mousiness on the nose, with lots of green vegetal acidity a long way afterward. Pretty astringent for the moment—a bit mean on the palate. Not yet formed at all—not one of the sweetest. A very ripe Spätlese in style, perhaps? But certainly playful, and it should have a long life thanks to that acidity. Clean finish. Drink 2013–20. 17