Stephen Brook: Enchanting nose, though botrytis not that apparent, with an appley freshness; perky and charming. Rich, rounded, plump, but the acidity, which is present, is rather concealed by the broad and exotic fruit and the waxy texture. Not the most finely tuned of TBAs, and thus lacking some precision and elegance, but it has fine fruit and ample potential. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Tight, with plenty of acidity and coffee fruit. Lovely long finish. There’s creaminess on the palate, but overall it’s very closed at the moment. It will be very, very good. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Not especially sweet and a little wild—maybe a yeast thing? Lots of acidity and bite and astringency. Extremely youthful. There are purer Rheingau TBAs in this collection—this seems a little raw and sticky at the moment. Drink 2014–24. 18