Stephen Brook: Muted peachy nose. Silky attack, very stylish, high-toned; has poise and finesse thanks to excellent acidity, with an oriental beauty and great purity. The fruit character is very tight, though there is some pineapple on the finish. Well balanced and very long, this will keep going for decades. 19

Margaret Rand: Big, raisiny fruit, evolving nicely. Grapey and raisiny sweetness, a touch burned; silky and elegant, too; very, very long. The concentration doesn’t dominate, and the character is allowed through; it’s a wine that’s easy to drink in spite of its intense sweetness. 17

Jancis Robinson: Nervy nose—perhaps not quite as convincingly clean as most, but perhaps that’s a yeast thing? Delicate on the palate and very nervy and bracing, as well as being quite exceptionally sweet and more obviously rich than any of the Nahe wines. Like biting into a fully ripe apricot. Very good, with wonderfully zesty acidity, as well as this plush, almost velvety, fruit. Drink 2011–24. 18