Stephen Brook: Full gold. Lush nose: peaches, oranges, honey. Rich, plump, overtly juicy, succulent; oranges and barley sugar; spicy and tangy. The acidity is a touch raw now and the texture somewhat thick, but this seems complete and should develop well. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Rich and lush, fleshy and creamy. Penetrating acidity. A luscious, luxurious wine, cushiony as duck down, with bouncy acidity to keep it bright. Needs time for the complexity to emerge. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Very deep, almost brownish copper. Rather comfortably brûlée and quite evolved; massively ripe and pungent fruit. The green acidity is still far from integrated into the fruit—rather harsh finish. Just a little bit too oxidative for my taste, though some tasters may love it. A tiny bit simple, especially on the finish. Drink 2012–20. 17.5