Alison Buchanan: Fathomless jet-shot mahogany. After treacle-rich dried fruit on the nose, this has lively marmalade refreshment and a wonderfully nut-rich backdrop. Given the build-up in opulence on the palate, the finish crops off rather suddenly, leaving a toffee-like sensation rather than pure fruit. Very fine. 16.5

Jesús Barquín: Deep mahogany, almost black, glass-coating. Nose of jammy, raisiny fruit. Very sweet and with good acidity, but a tad too hot, with some green tannin and reductive notes. Pleasant oxidation imparts nobility, especially in the long finish. 15.5

Julian Jeffs: Opaque. Good nose. Simpler palate and less length than I had expected. 14