Alison Buchanan: Jet-shot prune in color, this is rather subdued on the nose, revealing little. The palate is very serious—sweet, certainly, but with notes of cocoa powder and espresso coffee, citrus refreshment gradually elbowing its way through, bringing caramelized nut intrigue in its wake. This is true to itself throughout, with no hard edges or lurches on the finish. 17

Jesús Barquín: Deep chestnut or light mahogany. Complex vinosity on both nose and palate, with evident notes of old wine, perhaps Amontillado. The wine is well balanced and integrated, though, with pleasant acidity. 16

Julian Jeffs: Opaque. Disappointing nose. More acid than most, which gives a degree of freshness, but really nothing to it. 10