Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Firm dense black-cherry nose. Voluptuous and fleshy, with ample concentration and density; the sumptuous fruit is supported by firm, ripe tannins that give it a certain solidity. This does have some depth and grip, combining opulence with structure and even severity. This is an imposing wine that still has a long way to go, and it seems entirely in balance. Good length. Margaret River? 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-purple. Initially rather a sweaty (screwcappy?), slap-happy cast to the nose, but underneath that (once you’ve given it a chance to clear) you find svelte, ermine-lined blackcurrant of real class. Deep, almost truffley. Engaging. This is very deep, dark, and full of undercurrents (or undercurrants; perhaps both). Not excessively acidified, and the fruit qualities are outstanding. Limpid, poised, and deep, and this fruit has a compelling quality to it—the kind of thing you want to keep sipping. Perhaps overslender and only shyly tannic, so the overall effect is pristine and noli me tangere; but within this tasting, this is an impressive wine. Those dark, truffley blackcurrants are beautifully shaded with licorice. Coonawarra. 16.5"

Anthony Rose: Deep ruby hue; intriguing character of licorice spice, cedar, and cassis on the nose. Richly concentrated cassis-fruit quality here, nicely tinged with cedary oak spice, with a textured quality of tannin and freshness of acidity that’s really just starting to come into its own. Drinking nicely now but still vigorous and lively, and it should drink well for a good 5–10 years yet. Impressive and serious wine. Margaret River? 18