Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Pure and lifted cassis nose, with a slight herbaceous minty tone. Medium-bodied, supple, and moderately concentrated, with firm tannins supporting the fruit. Indeed, it’s a touch extracted given the modesty of the fruit, and there is some lack of acidity and zest. This seems fully ready. Pleasant but unremarkable. Coonawarra? 14

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red. Age has brought a resolution to these aromas, as well as a warm harmony that, again, underlines the extraordinary potential of these two regions. Fruit sweetness and freshness both, combined with a creamy wealth and incense spice notes—all come together here. Deep, tangy, savory; a wine of remarkable depth and authority that has held on to its textures remarkably well, too, and would provide great mature drinking just now. It is too acid, and the acid suffocates the natural allusiveness of this beautifully ripe fruit, but aside from that, this is very impressive and underlines the natural authority that Cabernet fruit from both regions delivers. Coonawarra. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Good color, shading from ruby to garnet; quite subtle aromatic quality, fresh and berry-like; fair berry fruit quality on the palate, with savory, dry blackcurrant fruit, well-integrated oak, and good juicy acidity. Evolution is bringing additional savory characters, albeit a tad dry and chunky on the finish. Margaret River? 17