Tim Atkin: Mid-ruby/purple. Strange, faintly resinous nose. Palate mature: sweet, but quite old-fashioned style. Mature, savory, Rhône-like. Pepper and spice. More Syrah than Malbec, but none the worse for that. Sweet spice. Leafy, gamey, mature, complex; good length and complexity. Drink now. 17

Gerard Basset: Deep ruby, with a garnet rim. Medium intensity. Slightly tobacco character, with some cherry notes. Supple on the palate but with a marked acidity. Medium finish. 16

Anthony Rose: Rich dark ruby; smoky dark-chocolate and peppery Syrah-like sweetness on the nose. This is attractively rich and concentrated. Smoked meats, tar and dark berry fruit—quite Syrah-like in some ways. This is complex and rich but at the same time peppery, spicy, and savory, with a nicely evolved, if slightly chewy, structure of tannins and acidity. 17.5