Tim Atkin: Densely colored. Big, powerful, alcoholic nose. Lush, plush, oaky. But it’s the alcohol that really dominates the wine, adding heat where no heat should be. Clunky, chunky, slightly four-square again. Hard to drink more than a glass of this. Modern. 13

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry. Right now there is a battle between the fruit and the oak, both equally upfront, and there is no little suspense as to which the winner will be. The tannins are high in quality, but still too obvious, as is the alcohol. Very powerful, perhaps excessively so. Modern. 15

Marcel Orford-Williams: American oak on the nose? This is something else. Complex, fine, and very long.Abundant charm. Gorgeous. Old-style. 17