Tim Atkin: Dense, thick, youthful color. Dead-fruit nose and palate. This could come from McLaren Vale. Oaky and tannic and extracted. Chewy and firm, high alcohol, and quite dry in style. Who would pick this as Rioja? Modern. 12

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry, almost opaque, with purple rim. Slightly heavy, very ripe, on both nose and palate. The earthy tannins are too present and detract from the wine’s balance. Modern. 13.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: A bit volatile. Tannic. Thick. Extracted. Can’t see it going anywhere. Old-style. 14