Tim Atkin: Rich, youthful purple. Dates and prunes and raisins. Dead-fruit style with lots of oak. Lacks freshness and poise and length. Good wine, but too much extraction. 12

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry with purple rim. Lots of ripe fruit, brutal extraction, oversized. Not that it lacks qualities, but it is comparatively flat and with aggressive tannins. A clear example of overdone modernity that I could not swear will improve with time. We shall see. Modern. 15

Marcel Orford-Williams: Extracted, tannic, and dominated by wood. Depressing. 3