Alison Buchanan: Rather flinty, smoky and very youthful nose. Youthful, fleshy palate. This is very good indeed and showing precious few signs of age – very mineral and very long. 16

Alex Hunt: Pure blackcurrant compôte on the nose. Acid remains firm and gives lift to the fruit. Short and a bit peculiar, but still good fun. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid gold; still a little green. Catty and herbal. Very slender and acidic, though ripe. A relic. 9