Alison Buchanan: Slightly rubbery, smoky nose here, this is a pretty, shimmering, pale gold color. Orchard fruits and nuts come through allied to some citrus and mineral lift. The palate is ample, rounded and brightly fruited with floral notes and honey in evidence. There is a lovely balance of richness and vitality that will give real pleasure. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Ripe but fairly closed nose. Very concentrated, warm feeling, but still with lovely lift. Lots of pithy, ripe stone fruit and notes of ginger. Long, authoritative finish, blending fruit and mineral grip. 17

Andrew Jefford: Full yellow-gold. Perhaps a touch of oxidation here, but there’s nothing wrong with that: it lends the aromatic profile fullness, depth and grain. Sweet fruits; few vegetal notes. Long but rather plain. Vinous. A structured P–F, but low on the charm front, leaving the palate with a sense of flat deflation, despite its otherwise impressive intensity. 11.5