Alison Buchanan: Very pale in color, this has a subtle but attractive nose with some gooseberry character, white currants and a refined minerality. Classical freshness with attractive complementary minerality make for a straightforward Sancerre that does what is says on the label and with a certain amount of style – fresh exuberant fruit and a lively balance. Good wine. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Unusual, engaging nose of orange peel and spice. Concentrated palate with a lot of grip. Ripe fruit plays against very firm acidity. Ballsy stuff that gets away with it. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale green-gold. Fresh and leafy, full of spring flutter. Mouthwatering, with lots of charm and appeal; a little hint of ground pink peppercorn behind, and then zesty apple fruit for the ground bass. As some of its peers prove, this is no walk-over. An aroma to be proud of. Great intensity, with lots of aromatic power clinging on to the acidic projectile as it arcs across the palate. Hard to fault; easy to like. None of the 2004 Sancerres has better incarnated the appellation ideal than this. 16