Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, this has a ridiculously decedent, seductive nose, wonderfully honeyed, opulent and ripe with an attractive almost botrytised mushroom character. The palate mirrors this, adding further mineral complexity and considerable weight. Still shows great vitality and zest – lovely wine. 17

Alex Hunt: Oak, flint and peach in surprisingly harmonious balance. Quite developed in flavor but not loose or tired. Still shows typical Sancerre structure 5+ years on. Impressive, elegant, persistent. 16

Andrew Jefford: Pale lemon–gold. Rich and voluptuous, with some oak here. Still sweet–edged both from the fruit itself and from the handling, with herbal complexities; attractive (to the open–minded), layered and subtle. Full, open, vivid, soft and accessible. Relatively frank and artless in its approach, but you can’t fault its depth, its purity or its exuberance. A convincing argument for ageing those good vintages when they come along. 15.5