Alison Buchanan: Very pale in color, this has a horrid nose – weird twisted fruit, blown and devoid of direction. Palate reflects nose. Flat, insipid and cardboardy. 10

Alex Hunt: A fresh, lively elderflower nose with impressive mineral depth. The palate is somewhat loose and straightforward in comparison. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Intriguing, appetizing scents: the leafiness includes a note that is almost hop–like, and there is a lovely floral sweetness to this wine, too. Not super-classic (little grass, for example), but lots of charm and seduction. Wonderful explosive intensity, here, and a splendid, spell–binding balance between ripeness and vividness. Joyfully fresh and exuberant. It would be hard to take the classic model much further than this – and hard to get up from the table leaving an unfinished bottle. Slightly brittle finish. 16