Alison Buchanan: This is amazing – very odd. It has a stunning color and great clarity on the nose – very focused. I love it but it is an anomaly. It has freshness and style, elegance and vitality but is definitely out of the box thinking. 16

Alex Hunt: Squashy fruit nose – like overripe plums. Fruit and acidity are, remarkably, still quite well knit on the palate. Very harmonious for a Sancerre of this age, and genuinely enjoyable. 14

Andrew Jefford: Mid–gold. Bugger the cats: this is smoky, oniony, even a little goaty. Oddly enough, the combination still gives pleasure – the pleasure of the weird. Those allusions have been largely lost to the palate, which is pretty stripped of everything except acidity and the tang of age itself. 10