Tim Atkin: Massive color. Ripe, almost raisiny, deeply concentrated. Smoky, super-ripe, lots of figgy fruit, with some mint and cassis. Acid finish. Nice grainy tannins, but the finish is dominated by acidity. Super-ripe. 13

Gerard Basset: Deep ruby. Pronounced nose. Rich ripe berry with some hints of cedar, too. Powerful structure, with ripe tannin, black fruit, and sweet spices; medium-long finish. 16

Anthony Rose: Deep youthful color, quite sweet, chocolaty, vanilla-like aromas, supple blackcurranty fruit quality, juicy texture and concentration of fruit and attractive freshness, with quite firm, grippy tannins and ever so slight feeling of forced freshness here on the finish; but overall the balance is well done, the cassis-like fruit quality quite pure. This needs the right food—a grill or roast—and will show all the better for it. 16.5