Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 7; brownish. The nose comes right out—crème caramel and custard, baked apple and dried apricot. Unashamedly sweet and thick on the palate, you could practically spread it on your toast. Creamy and voluptuous, with many layers of flavor and an endless finish. 18

Michael Edwards: A better example of the tawny-brown-hued style, clearer, brighter, more transparent.Very intense and unctuous, black fig and date flavors. Nicely balanced and harmonious. An old-fashioned style but a good one. 17

Jancis Robinson: Brownish/greenish tawny. Very dark and not crystal clear. Extremely aged on the nose—heavily oxidized. Extremely sweet! Almost painful on the teeth to taste. Not unlike prune juice. But there is acidity there, too, and the astringency of long aging in oak. An extreme Vin Santo, with very much more obvious sweetness than most. Less fluid than some. I could do with a little more acidity. Drink 2008–17. 16.5

Franco Ziliani: An example of an extreme style of Vin Santo. Mahogany color, full of mystery, then very ripe notes of dried fruit and grapes, with tobacco and dried leaves on the nose but an excessive alcoholic presence. Masses and masses of fruit, extremely rich, broad, overripe on the palate, with an incredible richness and persistence, but with a surprising balance. A never-ending finish. 18