Nicolas Belfrage: Opaque. Smooth international oak-and-berry-fruit nose. Relatively restrained on the palate but still overweight. Despite appearances, fairly Tuscan in style—should last well. 16

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin garnet rim. Touch closed, meaty nose, with layered black and red fruit and some oriental spices. Full-bodied and astringent, with clean fruit, but it’s a bit rustic on the finish. Good fruit but, again, overextracted. 15

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Lush plum-and-cherry nose. Very rich, supple, and concentrated, but backed by firm tannins that give a chewy texture. Both super-ripe and a touch overwrought, though still an impressive wine with fine weight of fruit. But hardly refreshing or elegant. 16