Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6. Apple peel and dried apricot, with some herbal element on nose. A touch medicinal but has lush fruit to hold it in check. Very minerally finish; good length. Good but not great. 15

Michael Edwards: Elegant, full amber-gold; really attractive and very elegant. Lovely scents of attic-dried yellow fruits, apricots, peaches, nectarines; a fine touch of botrytis (noble rot). Lovely, silky mouthfeel, with all those preserved fruits amplified. Harmony and completeness. 18

Jancis Robinson: Light orangey tawny. An odd smell that reminds me of some of the pasteurized Russian sweet wines! Lots of sweetness on the front of the palate and just a little bit of rancio. Then the acidity makes its presence felt. Quite a dry finish. Fades rather. Quite transparent and certainly very refreshing. Only the smell, vaguely reminiscent of formaldehyde, puts me off a little. Drink 2007–15. 16

Franco Ziliani: Marvelous and very brilliant color. The nose is very particular, wild and earthy, with dried mushroom and autumn leaves and saffron notes. Very rich, broad, full of energy on the palate, with a marvelous balanced sweetness thanks to the lively acidity, which also gives a long finish and a salty dry character to the wine. Very fascinating and complex, with a long finish. 17