Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Toffee-apple nose, something herbal. Palate intensely sweet but with firm acidity—apple, date, and golden syrup being the contending flavors. Finishes quite long and not too cloying, despite the high sugar level. 16

Michael Edwards: Limpid amber. Spicy, with a light alcohol burn. This alcohol burn is notable on the palate, slightly militating against complete balance. Quite sweet: peaches in syrup. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Deep Lucozade color. Good clarity. Heady, as though the wood was not sparkling clean on the nose. Lovely, sweet palate entry with a hint of prunes. Intense and vibrant. Lots of alcohol, too. Quite intense. Very persistent, though without any ethereal qualities. Drink 2008–15. 16

Franco Ziliani: Marvelous brilliant and intense color. The nose shows the controlled oxidation style of some Vin Santo, with a little alcoholic excess but very charming and appealing citrus notes. Very fresh, salty, and dry on the palate, with a vibrant freshness and perfect acidity that give energy and length on the finish. 16.5