Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. In-your-face, candied-fruit aromas; keep inhaling. Very sweet dried fruit—peach and apricot, with nuts—and grapefruit. Acidity tries to compete but doesn’t manage. Nevertheless, a sexy miasma of sweetness and dried-fruit flavor that ought to please the sensualists. 16

Michael Edwards: Mid-gold. Pretty sweet, verging on syrupy. Fat and plump but lacks a sprightly, poised opulence of style. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Green-golden deep copper. Smells a little “warmed,” then some rancio. Relatively delicate. Chewy finish. Sort of mahogany flavors. Not much drive but very delicate and lively. Just not much density. Lots of acidity and not that much sweetness. Drink 2005–12. 16

Franco Ziliani: Marvelous, golden, sunny color, very brilliant and full of light. The nose displays very clear notes of dried orange, oriental spice, saffron, fig, apricot, almonds, and an interesting controlled oxidation, with a very dry character. Very lively, fresh, and dry on the palate, with a fascinating fresh, salty minerality. Good balance, fresh acidity, and a very persistent finish, just a little sweet. 17