Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6; bright. Quite a lot happening on the nose, with herbs and candied apple. A bittersweet character on the palate, suggesting greater depth and length than it eventually delivers. Caramel with apple pip; medium length. 15

Michael Edwards: Amber, light tawny hints. Spirity, edgy nose. Edgy palate, lacks definition of luscious Vin Santo flavors. 14

Jancis Robinson: Brownish greenish mid-tawny. Very rancio indeed! But then not too concentrated. Lovely transparency. Like treacle-flavored Riesling (and I like both treacle and Riesling). Very clean, bracing finish. Finishes dry, but there is lots of sweetness and, above all, real Vin Santo character here. Not the sweetest but one of the most interesting. Long and reverberant. Sweet and treacly and vibrant. Long and nutty. Super-clean on the finish. Not that sweet on the end. Drink 2010–25. 18

Franco Ziliani: Nose not perfectly clear, just a little tired, with excess alcohol that gives some bitter notes. Very fresh and salty on the palate, in the oxidative style; good acidity and energy, but the wines lack just a little of the complexity and “vibration” that you must expect from a great Vin Santo. 15