Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Some autumnal tones to the nose of baked apple, dust, and apple peel. A mouthful on the tart palate of appealingly smooth texture and mellow feel. The aromas could be more refined. 88

Simon Field: Straw-green, small, poised bubbles, then a pleasing nose of Mirabelle plum, honeydew melon, and soft spice; smoke, poached pear, and briary. A pleasing matrix of complexity; nice soft honey on the palate, summer flowers and ripeness rather than sugar underwriting the innate complexity; composed and yet not lacking for authority on the finish. 93

Anthony Rose: Pale gold with green glints, this is both bright and evolved at the same time, showing autolytic popcorn and buttery notes; still remarkably youthful in taste, with richly concentrated farm butter, light toast, and popcorn notes, with a full-flavored peaches-and-cream mousse that’s expansively buoyant and finishes on a mouthwateringly dry note. 94