Essi Avellan: Lemon color. Soft fruit-forward nose, with lemon, quince, and orange blossom. Fresh and youthful. Zingy and lemony on the palate. Fluffy mousse and bright fruitiness until the medium-long finish. 89

Simon Field: Attractive, nacreous hue; resplendent bead, persuasive and long. A nose of spring flowers, quince, and windfall apples, eased off the trees by the intimations of Autumn. Petrichor restraint on the mid-palate, plenty of zesty, citric charisma, and a fine, flinty finish. Well-judged dosage, and with aeration there are notes of sour honey and macadamia nuts. Impressive. 91

Anthony Rose: Pale gold, fresh and bright, with smoky autolytic notes of almond sweetness and vanilla, and in the mouth there’s an equally fresh and lively if supple mousse, cut by a trenchant bit of refreshingly citrusy acidity in white-Burgundy-with-bubbles mode. An attractive, pure Chardonnay, perhaps from one of the Côte’s chalky outcrops. 92