Essi Avellan: Intense lemon color. Youthful, softly fruity, smoky nose, with creamy and toasty notes to it. Fleshy palate, keeping on the appley side with a touch of drying phenolics. A little austere and unfriendly, although the intensity and mousse are good. 88

Simon Field: Pale green-gold, with a lively mousse. The precocious nose recalls dried straw, lemon pith, and a hint of baking powder. Perfectly correct. The palate tells tales of oyster beds, dried fruits, and earthenware... pointillist images, the gaps maybe just as significant as the flecks of paint; apricot kernels and windfall apples, shards of acidity and a refreshing purity. On a second tasting, the wine seems fuller and more generous, hazelnuts and even filo pastry emerging. So, more encouraging. 90

Anthony Rose: Pale gold in color, this has a rich, leesy, honeycomb and butterscotch aroma, very Chardonnay, almost Puligny-like in fact; it’s delightfully full-flavored, with a pleasing crème Chantilly richness of texture, quite winey and delightfully savory as it tapers toward a tangy, dry finish. 92